Installing Mustang Front Spindles:

Jack up front of car and support with adequate jack stands.

Check the condition of the upper and lower ball joints by inserting a very long pry bar under the front tire(s).  Place a dial indicator on the upper control arm and the indicator point on the spindle.  If a dial indicator is not available a more crude method can be used.  Have one of your crew buddies watch the spindle as you pry up on the pry bar.  Any movement between the spindle and upper ball joint constitutes replacement of the ball joint as the upper ball joint is the "load carrying" ball joint on a Mustang, (spring is mounted on top of the upper control arm).

Lower the car and break lug nuts loose while car is on the ground.

Jack up the front of the car again and support with adequate jack stands.

Remove lug nuts and front wheels.

Remove brake lines and ducting (if so equipped), from calipers/spindle assembly.  Remove one side of the sway bar to allow for easier removal of spindles.

If the Coil Spring is compressed at all they must be compressed or at the very least supported in the compressed position or serious injury may result, (most race springs are shorter than stock and do not need to be supported as after jacking they are "loose" on the upper control arm).

Remove cotter pins from upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and remove ball joint stud retention castle nuts.

Separate upper and lower ball joint ends and tie rod ends from spindle.

Compare spindle tapers on old spindles to the new spindles in the upper/lower ball joints and tie rod end holes.  If there is a difference they must be reamed to the proper taper and size, (rarely a difference but must me checked prior to installation).  Failure to check this can lead to premature ball joint stud and tie rod end breakage.

Once the spindle tapers have been verified as correct, the new spindle and brake assembly can be installed.

First install the spindle assembly on the lower ball joint stud and attach castle nut and torque to 55 ft. lbs. and install a new cotter pin.

Now attach the upper ball joint stud into the upper taper in the spindle.  A little persuasion may be necessary by using your pry bar or assistance from a crew member, (due to the strut rods and their angles to the lower control arms).  In some cases it may be necessary to remove the two bolts that attach the strut rods to the lower control arms.  Now attach the upper castle nut to the ball joint stud and torque to 55 ft. lbs. and install a new cotter pin.  Attach the tie rod ends and torque to 40-45 ft. lbs.  Remove the Coil Spring Compressor or supports at this time.

Re-attach all brake lines and ducting.

Repeat installation on the other side of car.

Install sway bar link.

Bleed brakes with Motul Synthetic Brake Fluid or Castrol SRF, (or equivalent high temperature Racing Brake Fluid).  Do not use any Silicone Fluids!!!

Install wheels and lug nuts and torque to 90 ft. lbs., (this is necessary due to the floating rotor on the hubs.  The rotors were indexed and zero run out was achieved at this specification.)  Check for any caliper to wheel interference by the wheel spokes themselves or wheel weight placements.  Shim wheel from hat or place weights elsewhere as necessary.  Lower car to ground and torque lug nuts to 90 ft. lbs.

Re-check toe, caster/camber, bump steer and ride height settings and adjust if necessary.  Toe should be set at 1/16"/1/8" toe in, and get as much caster as the right or left strut rod will allow, (2 1/2 degree positive is desired), and then match the opposite side accordingly.  Camber is best set at negative 2/3.0 degrees.  The car should have zero bump but is zero is unattainable then the car should bump out slightly under bump, (compressed as the suspension would be under braking.  Ride height should be at 1.0 inches, (measured at the inner control arm bolt center measurement minus the measurement at the outer ball joint flange).

First test session.  Bring new friction and rotor surfaces up to temperature gradually by driving in a street driven manner for the first 30 minutes.  At the last 5 minutes of the session make a lap of normal race braking stops.  Allow rotors and friction to cool, (keep foot off brake pedal after entering pit lane or hot-spot rotor warpage is sure to occur ruining both the rotors and the friction).

Re-torque lugs to 90 ft. lbs to seat studs, and wheel taper/to lug nuts.  Do this procedure for the first 5 sessions to insure proper mating of all components.

Enjoy your new ability to go deeper and get on the gas sooner for faster lap times!

Also, don't forget to download my pre and post grid checklists.

In the spirit of the sport,